KiwiCelt Wooden Flutes

How to look after a wooden flute

If you own and play a wooden flute, it is important to keep the instrument in good condition so that you can get the best performance from it. The following information deals with the maintenance and care of wooden flutes. Please take the time to read these instructions — especially if you have just purchased your first wooden flute. If your instrument is new, it is always good to take little extra care in the beginning to give your wooden flute a good start in life.

A basic keyless Irish flute:

A wooden flute head-joint

A wooden flute body

Wooden Flute Care Instructions

Oiling Your Wooden Flute

Most important to your flute’s good health and longevity is regular oiling. During the process of being played, varying amounts of moisture build up inside a flute; especially in and around the tenon and socket where the head joint and body of the flute join. Regular oiling fills the pores of the wood, protects the wood from the process of being wet and drying out, and helps the breath to flow freely through the instrument when it is being played. Cold pressed almond oil is best suited for this purpose and is available at most supermarkets or health food stores. Please remember: Regular oiling will keep your wooden flute alive and sounding great!

What To Do:

• Using a flute cleaning stick with a small piece of lightly oiled (with almond oil) cloth threaded through it (old T-Shirt material is fine), move the cloth through the length of the body or head-joint separately until you are satisfied that there is an even covering of oil throughout. The inside of the flute should appear quite shiny after this process. If the flute needs more oil, just add a few drops through the embouchure or tone holes.
• It is advisable to lightly oil the outside of the flute every few weeks, and to leave it exposed to the air as much as possible when not in use. After oiling the outside of your flute, leave it for a few hours and then wipe away the excess with a soft dry cloth. This will give the instrument a lovely sheen and will protect it.
• If the flute is enclosed inside the case all the time, the moisture is trapped with it (very bad for the wood) and the almond oil may become rancid and tacky (smells awful!).
• If you have a keyed flute, it is advisable to cover the key pads with some plastic kitchen Glad Wrap or a similar product prior to oiling the flute. It is best to avoid getting oil on the key pads, as they may develop a tendency to stick.
• NB: Change the oiling rags from time to time before they become too soiled or become rancid.

Frequency:

• When a flute is new, I would suggest that it is good to oil it twice a week for the first month; once a week for the second month; once every two weeks for the third month and then once a month from then onward. This I offer as a rule of thumb based on my experience with the Kiwicelt flutes and my own Cocus flute. If you notice that your flute is drier than you would wish, or conversely, over-oiled, adjust the frequency of your oiling program accordingly. I personally think that there is far less danger to a flute in over-oiling than there is in under-oiling.
• It is possible to over-oil a flute. As it ages, your flute will become reasonably saturated with oil. If you continue to oil the flute as if it were still new, you will notice that the flute will not absorb oil as much and will perhaps even sweat oil in certain conditions or when being played. If this happens, cease your oiling program, let the flute dry out a little and then continue regular oiling with less frequency. Some flutes need very little oiling after a period of time. Let the flute get plenty of air if over-oiling occurs, as this will reduce the chance of the oil becoming rancid and also aid the depletion of the excess oil.

Moisture

As important as regular oiling is the drying of your flute after a session of playing. Moisture builds up inside the flute (especially within the tenon and socket area) from condensation caused by the flow of warm breath internally and the colder air externally — just like the interior of a winter window in a warm house. Mopping the flute out will take away the bulk of this moisture. The rest will evaporate, another good reason to leave the flute case open after the flute is finished with. Personally, I have a flute stand that I leave my flutes on after I have oiled or dried them. This allows them a good airing.

What To Do:

• After playing, take a piece (a longish strip for this job) of dry cloth threaded through a flute cleaning stick and proceed to thoroughly mop out each part of your flute until you are sure that the flute is as dry as possible. Pay particular attention to the tenon and socket area; where the flute joins, as this is where most of the moisture gets trapped and also where the flute is most vulnerable. The end grain of the wood in this area of the flute is very thin and easily soaks up moisture. It should be dried, oiled and cleaned with extra care and attention.
• Another place to pay particular attention is inside the top of the head joint; above the embouchure hole. Wad your drying cloth a little by twisting the cleaning stick and make sure to be thorough in mopping out this area. This helps the stopper cork, which is situated in the head joint above the embouchure hole, to remain as dry as possible. If the stopper cork becomes too sodden from being constantly wet, it may swell and place undue pressure on the head joint. This, in turn, can cause cracking, the flute’s arch enemy.
• Mopping out the flute will remove most of the residual moisture. The rest will evaporate within a few hours depending on the conditions. Leaving your flute case open or storing the flute on a flute stand will enable the air to naturally do the rest. When the flute is dried properly, it can then be oiled if you deem it necessary.
• If involved in a long session of playing, it is advisable to mop out your flute during the session. This will protect the instrument and, with the obstruction of excess moisture removed, leave the flute more playable.
• NB: The process of mopping out and oiling the flute is also good from the point of view that the regular drawing of cloth through the bore helps to keep it smooth and shiny. This, in turn, helps the flute to produce a smooth, clear tone.

Assembly, Disassembly And Greasing The Cork

When a flute is new, the cork on the tenon will be rather dry. The cork will therefore need to have a small amount of cork grease gently massaged into it each time the flute is assembled. (The tenons of some flutes are bound with thread; instead of cork but the same basic rules apply.) Greasing the cork decreases the stress on both the tenon and the socket, as it keeps the cork moist, expanded and pliable. Wooden flutes are most vulnerable at this joining point due to the thinness of the wood. The rings and bands on the flutes exist for more than just ornamentation as they add strength to these vulnerable areas. As your flute ages, the cork will slowly become saturated and greasing may not have to be performed as often. Cork grease is readily available in most music stores where woodwind instruments and flutes are sold; usually in a small chap-stick type dispenser.

What To Do:

• Before assembling your flute, simply apply a small smear of cork grease to the cork from the dispenser and then gently massage it evenly into the cork with your fingertip. Grease all of the cork but do not overuse.
• It is good to occasionally remove the build-up of excess cork grease that may occur on the tenon or within the socket. Excess grease can act as a trap for dust and lint and cause ill-fitting and pressure where it is least needed in a wooden flute.
• Never try to assemble the flute if the cork is very dry and you find it difficult to slide the head joint onto the socket of the flute. Grease the cork first. Support each side of the joints with your hands close to each other when assembling or disassembling the flute. Use a gentle twist and push (or pull) action — especially if the joints are a little tight.
• If the joints become really tight while in the assembled state, blow air through the flute or play it until the flute warms again. This should loosen the joints as the flute expands a little. If that does not work, contact a maker or reputable wooden flute repairer for advice.
• NB: It is best not to leave your flute assembled for any length of time once you have finished playing it. Leaving the flute assembled makes the instrument susceptible to cracking as it cools and becomes tight; especially in cold and dry climates. It will also compress the cork on the tenon; leaving the flute loose at the joint. This will necessitate the early replacement of the cork. A wooden flute is best left disassembled after playing and exposed to air in an open case or on a flute stand.

Temperature Extremes

Do not leave your flute exposed to direct sunlight (i.e. windowsill or the dashboard of a car) or near a source of heat (i.e. fireplace or heater). Strong heat will potentially expand and crack the wood. Store the flute in a dry and well shaded place out of harms way. By the same token, exposure to extreme cold can also be detrimental, especially where tuning slides are involved. Wood and metal expand and contract at different rates and a sudden change in temperature can sometimes cause cracking to occur. If you are moving between situations of extreme temperature change, please make sure that your flute is well insulated to deal with it. (Insulated cases or thick woollen socks work like a charm.) If your flute is very cold, give it some time to warm to room temperature before settling into a session of playing. I often put mine up my jumper to let it warm up or gently breathe a little air through it for a few minutes before I start playing, especially if the flute is really cold.

In The Wrong Hands

I often think it is better not to allow anyone to tinker with or play your flute unsupervised unless you can trust them and have shown them proper assembly and care. People, especially young children, will not necessarily understand the delicacy of such an instrument. Never drop an assembled flute, as this could potentially shatter the tenon and/or socket area. Never ever leave an assembled flute lying on a chair or somewhere where it might be vulnerable to mishap. If you have to leave it for even a short time, it is worth taking a moment to place it safely somewhere out of harm’s way; or even put it in its case to be safe. I’ve heard some horror stories revolving around flutes being left on chairs by their owners while they slip away for a minute — and someone spies an empty chair to sit on and, well, it doesn’t bear thinking about…

General Cleaning And Grooming

Clean the embouchure and tone holes as often as you need to with cotton-wool buds (Q-Tips). This will remove dirt and lint build-up that can obstruct the clear flow of breath through the flute and hamper your tone. It is also advisable to oil the end-grain within the holes using a cotton wool bud occasionally; especially when the flute is new. This will help to protect the end-grain from moisture. As stated previously, it is also advisable to lightly oil the outside of the flute occasionally, let the flute sit for a few hours or overnight and then wipe off the excess oil with a soft dry cloth. This will give the flute a nice sheen and help protect it. It doesn’t hurt to wash your hands before handling your flutes as well.

Keys, Tuning Slides And Extra Joints

If your flute has a tuning slide, keys and a foot joint etc, all of the above still applies. Obviously, multi-joint instruments are a little more complex in their structure and should be treated with great care when being dried, oiled and maintained. Please take advice from the maker on these matters and use common sense and caution. Tuning slides can be easily disassembled, dried and reassembled - and should be lubricated with cork grease for ease of adjustment. It is very important that tuning slides be dried after playing. If the instrument is not mopped out regularly, a build up of moisture between the metal of the tuning slide and the wood of the flute will cause corrosion to build up on the metal. This, in time, can create expansion from beneath the wood that may eventually cause cracks the wood. Key pads, as mentioned, should always be kept free of bore oil.

‘Playing-In’ A New Flute

This is an important aspect of owning a new flute; playing the flute in gradually so that the wood gets a chance to get used to warming and cooling, and being moistened and drying off. This period also allows the flute an opportunity to absorb the oil that feeds it and keeps it alive and hummin’. During this process, the molecules of the wood develop harmony and the voice of the flute develops and begins to mature; just like a human voice that is trained and matures over time. Too much hard work too soon can be detrimental to the flutes development. It is better to begin playing the flute for short periods and increase the length of the playing sessions as time goes by. During this process, take time to care for the flute as mentioned above.

What To Do:

• My own personal practice in playing-in three flutes to date, has been to play them for 10 — 15 minutes at each end of the day to begin with. Each day I increase the length of the playing sessions by 5 — 10 minutes per session until I am playing 1 — 2 hours or more at each end of the day. Every week, I would let the flute have a rest day to let it dry right out and all the time I would follow good drying, oiling and greasing practice. My own flutes have all turned out well as a result of this practice.
• Do not be tempted to over-play a new flute. Have a little patience and you will not regret the care taken when you hear the results further down the track.
• NB: All woodwind instruments perform best when played regularly, just as all woodwind instrument players perform best when they practice and play regularly. Regular playing keeps an instrument from drying out.

Grandpa’s/Grandma’s Old Flute

With good care your flute should become an heirloom; to be played through the ages and enjoyed by generations to come. There are still plenty of good old flutes around that are offering their owners much joy and there is no reason why yours should not become one of them. Some of these flutes are well over 150 years old!

Problems

If you have any problems with your flute, I think it is always best to refer to the maker first. If that is not possible, try to take the flute to a recommended and reputable craftsman/repairer that works with wooden flutes; preferably someone who plays and understands them.

Flute Playing Help

Having received many enquiries about fingering charts and playing instruction, we have added a page to KiwiCelt that contains links to fingering charts, playing tips and advice, teachers of Irish/Celtic music in New Zealand, websites that contain inspirational and often amusing interviews with some of the world’s top wooden flute players and a variety of other informative material. Please visit the KiwiCelt Flute Playing Help page.

Above All!

Above all, happy fluting and have fun! Your playing will will no doubt bring great joy to yourself and those that hear it if you are having fun and getting joy. At least, that’s the experience that most fluters seem to have when they practice, persist and play…

“Never get one of those cheap tin whistles. It leads to much harder drugs like pipes and flutes.” — Unknown.

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